Friday 14th October
I arrived late in Rome after a ‘plastic’ breakfast brought by the steward. Anyway I still had 20 minutes before the Bari train departed. I’m heading for Patras in Greece on the overnight Superfast ferry. I was glad to be in 1st class on the train, quiet with free coffee, water and snacks before arriving in Bari at 12.30. Walked through a city centre park and found a gelataria – mine’s a Pistachio and Mango!
It took some time to find the route to Bari port as Google assumes foot passengers take the car route doubling the journey time. Eventually arrived at the port at 2 pm far too early for the 5 pm admission to the ship. The check in hall was large and quiet so I didn’t mind. After another passport check, a crew member took me and my case to cabin 6219 – now that’s what I call service! It’s a cosy en suite cabin, so glad I’m not sharing or in the aircraft seats. For more info using Interrail on Superfast ferry https://www.superfast.com/en-gb/special-offers/sail-rail
Saturday 15th October
A shimmering sea greeted me when I woke up, it was magical. As the ship made its way along the Greek coast and islands, it made an idyllic scene in the bright blue sky.
Not so magical was the taxi ride to Patras station, the driver took me to Kiato despite my protestations that was not what I wanted, leaving me over 150 Euros worse off.
I had his registration and sent a stinging email to complaints at the Greek National Office, but I don’t suppose I’ll hear any more!
The train ride from Kiato to Athens took 90 minutes then 20 minutes walk to the hotel
The hotel Katerine is an Athenian standard 3* hotel. I made a quick trip on the very clean Metro to find out about where the Acropolis is!
On the way back stopped at the Bread Factory take away near the hotel. They sell a delicious range of pastries and savoury snacks. I bought a slice of breaded pizza topped with corn, red peppers and olives and a chocolate bun to take back to my room.
Sunday 16th October
Took the very efficient Athens Metro the 15 minutes too the Acropolis from a stop just outside the hotel
Only a short 10 minute queue to get into the Acropolis and the Parthenon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parthenon. It’s an amazing survival from ancient Greece, 5th century BC mostly. The crowds were there, but it’s an extensive site. There is much restoration of the Parthenon as you can judge from the scaffolding. You can see how the architecture of the Parthenon has become a model for impressive buildings around the globe such as the White House, Washington DC and many stately homes in Britain, starting in Roman times
I later went to the nearby Acropolis Museum, a beautiful modern building and outstanding display of finds from the Acropolis site. They have a light meal restaurant on the 3rd floor with great views of the Parthenon They served delicious filled rolls with cheese, salad and veal, despite my being a vegetarian!
Monday 17th October
Day trip on the Hellenic railway’s flagship train to Thessaloniki and got talking to a lady whose a professor there, her son works in consultancy in London. Thessaloniki station seems impressive but hosts few trains. I would say it’s seen better days! The railway system in Greece is in a bad way with graffiti and vandalised carriages littering the track side.
Thessaloniki was sunny and warm as I walked along the mile long promenade to the White Tower. Nearby is the statue of Alexander the Great on horseback, celebrated Macedonian king of the 4th century BC. Inviting cafes lining the promenade. were doing a brisk trade.
There was no catering on the return train to Athens, so went to Maronis restaurant near my hotel for a sea bream, noisy, but convivial venue. They had a mournful Greek singer, but he couldn’t be heard over the noise.
Tuesday 18th October
Final full day in Greece took a train on the new line to Kioto then a local train Diakopto for a day trip to Odontotos reck railway, on yet another sunny day. The rack railway starts in Diakopto, a sleepy town, then winds up the Voutaikas river valley in a steep gorge see https://www.odontotos.com/index-en.htm. The steep cliffs are well wooded, the vibrant autumn leaf colours ensured this was a journey to remember. There was a local school group and another seniors group from Norway visiting the railway. At the end of the line is the charming village of Kalavryta, remarkably a ski resort in winter in a suitably alpine environment.
My last dinner at Maroni’s was a fine Greek salad with pitta bread, a meal in itself. Busy as ever, the Greek singer accompanied by a mandolin player were swamped by the chatter of the diners, my last memory of Athens.