Welcome to Part 3 of my train trip around Switzerland, home of dramatic mountain landscapes.
We are now at Champery, linked to the Portes du Soleil, an ideal spot for hiking. My favourite walk is to follow the road to Grand Paradis, then cut through woodland to the Galleries Defago. This is a footpath cut into the cliffs with dramatic views of Champery. This takes about 2 hours and you arrive at the mountain restaurant Cantine Les Rives. See https://www.regiondentsdumidi.ch/en/defago-arcade-fp302
Alternatively, why not take the 10 minute cable car ride up to Croix de Culet for a 90 minute walk to the Alpage Lapisa mountain restaurant. They have great cheese for sale, the views of the Dents du Midi are spectacular see https://www.lapisa.ch/. Try local delicacy Croute au fromage made with slices of bread soaked in white wine and covered in grated cheese. Then it is oven baked and served garnished with pickles and decorated with a local flower.
For a selection of other walks from Champery see https://www.komoot.com/guide/17679/hiking-around-champery. Some require the use of local bus services which are included in the Swiss pass
Next day for Zermatt take the one hour mountain train from Champery station to Aigle. in the Rhone valley. There change to the main line towards Brig getting off after about an hour at Visp. Here the smart red mountain train is waiting, sit on the left side for best views from the panoramic windows. The complete journey takes just under 4 hours, departures are hourly. Once checked in to your accommodation visit the Matterhorn museum https://www.zermatt.ch/en/Media/Attractions/Matterhorn-Museum-Zermatlantis and find out how this small mountain farming village became an international alpine resort. You’ll see a broken piece of rope after the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 ended in tragedy on the descent.
Zermatt village is car free, however as the station is on the main street, most accommodation is within walking distance or take one of the electric taxis. Take an excursion on the Gornergratbahn, the world’s first electric cog railway for great views of the Matterhorn. The Swiss Pass allows half price travel on the Gornergratbahn.
See my Side trip Swiss Train trip Part 3 to France https://traintraveloracle.com/michaels-swiss-trip-part-3-side-trip-rail-news/. You can experience 2 fascinating train excursions to the vast Emossen reservoir or a retreating glacier at Montenvers. Just divert from this itinerary at Martigny for the Mont Blanc Express https://www.mont-blanc-express.ch/en/
Can a no-frills train attract travellers from plane to train?
Simon Calder, Independent travel correspondent of the interviews Mark Smith, the Man in Seat61
Two leading travel writers discuss the merits of bargain fares by Ouigo, the low cost French rail company owned SNCF. Ouigo only provides a basic train service i.e. no 1st class, no catering, luggage has to be paid for (except hand luggage). Mark Smith advocates competition should be based on quality of service, essentially SNCF is competing with itself. Simon Calder sees it as a fight on price to compete with flights. Will this work given that travel times by rail are usually much longer than flights?
Only No frills vs choice?
Mark Smith highlights the Italo train service competing with Trenitalia in Italy. He argues by offering a wide range of fares from Budget to luxury Business is a better model. The French Ouigo service, has no connection with any other rail service, requires 30 minute check in and no on board catering. Mark Smith argues that rail is the preferred choice for reasons other than cost. For the full interview go to https://www.independent.co.uk/travel/news-and-advice/trains-europe-planes-spain-french-railways-eurostar-b546469.html
What do you think?
Which is the way forward, competition on price of on quality of Service?
Should we compare competition in the rail industry with the airline world?
One of the strengths of rail travel is inter connectivity, should this be sacrificed for a low cost offer?
